A swahili place: Lamu town

I had been told by several people that Lamu and Mount Kenya were the highlights of Kenya. There are so many highlights in Kenya that I was really wondering what Lamu would be like!

The problem is reaching… it’s located on the Northern Coast : there are three Lamus; Lamu town, Lamu the island itself and Lamu archipelago. It seems the most beautiful thing is apart from enjoying the atmosphere to navigate from one island to another and enjoy the nature around. In fact there are mangrove forests and the islands are surrounded by turquoise water. I didn’t do that myself, because it wasn’t what I would call a highlight: Diani for me is more of a highlight having a coral reef at 200 m from the shore!

When I arrived a guy took my suitcase and asked me what my hotel was and took me there; I had just landed… I had no time to breathe: people in Lamu assault the tourists that come especially in low season: they are hungry for clients. No tourist goes unnoticed in Lamu. The inhabitants greet you, ask you if you need or want something… They probably thing they are being nice by doing so but it produces a contrary effect in me: all I want to do is run home! And I become really unkind to whoever is trying to make a living, because after all, all they are doing is looking for clients.

There are no cars in Lamu: they use donkeys instead, and there are 2200 donkeys on the island. It’s a multicultural city: Indian, Arabian, Kenyan influences merge. It is what they call the Swahili culture. Like the rest of the coast it’s an Islamic territory.

In the evening the children jump into the water from the “main road” … a main road which reminded me of Pondy’s promenade. Their games include also are boxes which become cars, and even I saw them playing with a dead baby donkey which they threw into the sea they were swimming in again and again… Ok this is definitely a different culture I thought.

The streets are narrow, the houses and buildings are made of corals, and the sewerage runs through the streets itself. Yes it can seem relaxing in the sense that we are on an island where there are no cars. It could seem like a voyage in time … if only people didn’t assault every single tourist!

What I did enjoy in Lamu was my beautiful hotel : a Swahili house made of coral with a beautiful green patio in the centre, and I think it was the cutest I’ve ever experienced.  Three windows and a bed like the one I dreamt of when I was a child. There is was really fun to do all the writing I had to do: calm and relaxing, just what I needed! Another thing was watching the tides: the difference is huge so huge that when some people attacked Lamu, they got stuck when they wanted to leave because there boats which they had left in the water were now stuck in firm land… and also the food: fresh snapper, fried bananas with honey and the amazing, truly amazing fruit juices that are as creamy as smoothies.

But I have said enough: as we say in France an example is worth a thousand words, so take a look at the video and get a sense of what it is like.

Hell’s Gate National Park


Hell’s gate scenary

Hell’s gate is a special park in Kenya  in the sense that you can cycle or walk around. It’s located near Lake Naivasha, 150 km from Nairobi.  The main attraction is the Gorge, located 8 km from Elsa Gate.   The Routard said it could remind us of Petra in Jordan… well let’s not exagerate please… But the Gorge can get water and there there were hot springs were you can even boil eggs!

The other beautiful part of the park is the scenary. Huge special rocks I hadn’t seen anywhere else in Kenya…

And zebras, warthogs, many birds…interesting plants, flowers… insects.

I chose to ride a cycle myself, and I thought I saw a buffalo from a distance. Then I laughed at how ridiculous this was: there could not allow people to walk or ride around if there were actually buffalos inside the park! Buffalos are the most dangerous aggressive animals, that was literaly impossible…So I proceeded to the Gorge.

And on the way back I saw not one but many buffalos… staring at me….mmm… let me take a deep breath…as I cycle past them…

Waooo….that was scary!

Remember to click on one of  the picture to view all  the gallery in full-screen

Lake Naivasha

Lake Naivasha… 150 km away from Nairobi, accross the Rift Valley…139 km2 a fresh water lake unlike the saline Lake Nakuru…

I was imagining I would have a wonderful walk around the lake… which is totally impossible. Aroud the lake there are hotels who own the land and rosegreen houses … each rose drinks 10 litres per day… but then this is why the Kenyan roses do smell. They are also exported all over the world.

The area is home to more than 600 bird species…

In any case, just reaching and seeing was so relaxing.. these are all the animals I could spot at the Fisherman’s camp where I actually camped! The place is full of yellow feaver trees which appear golden as the light declines…

Click on the first picture to view the gallery in full screen.

A lesson of motherhood & life : baby Thompson’s gazelle’s first steps in life

new-born thompson's gazelle

new-born thompson’s gazelle

Probably the highlight of my visit to Lake Nakuru’s National Park is to have been blessed to see a new-born Thompson Gazelle make its very first steps in life.  She was still wet from birth, her mother had been licking her to clean her. Both for this reason were harassed by flies. At first I was surprised to see that they were far from the group of gazelles.

I was waiting for the moment… I was so absorbed in it, that I even forgot to film it! How I regret not having caught with my camera the moment when defying gravity the calf stood on its thin legs for the first time in its life! Where could he find the strength after the tremendous effort of birth, to fight against gravity? A new-born human baby would require months before finding the strength for such an effort: but in wildlife, they couldn’ t afford such luxuries…

What was the motivation behind this instinct? Maybe hunger and thurst after the effort… Here we see the perfection of creation. It was so hungry and thirsty that this made gave the new-born strength! Indeed it was impossible for it to feed if sitting. And the mother would certainly not bend down for him. She would empower her calf, to stand up to her! What an amazing mum! Continue reading

Magical Lake Nakuru

Pour la version française, voir en-dessous de la galerie de photos.

To see the pictures in full screen in a diaporama click on the first picture

Lake Nakuru is a saline lake located at north west of Nairobi. It is known as the birdwatchers paradise. The lake’s water level varies: twice it dried up completely: it depends on rains. Two species of  flamingos inhabit the lake : the lesser and greater flamingo. They are the pride of Lake Nakuru.

The park is home to white rhinos – 100 individuals-, a few lions, waterbucks, impalas, Thomson gazelles, a few leopards, buffalos, rothchild giraffes, zebras and more than 400 species of birds.

The Reserve was created in 1963.

This is how magical it looks, at dawn..

Pour visualiser un diaporama en mode plein écran, cliquez sur la première photo de la galerie.

Le lac Nakuru est un lac alcalin situé au Nord-Ouest de Nairobi. Il est surnommé le paradis des ornithologues. La niveau de l’eau du lac varie, à deux reprises il a été complètement asséché, car il dépend de la pluie. Le lac est habité par deux espèces de flamants:  le flamant nain et le flamant rose qui font la fierté du lac.

Le parc contient aussi des rhinocéros blancs – une centaine d’individus- quelques lions et léopards, des gazelles de Thomson, des kob defassa, des girafes de Rothschild, des zèbres et plus de quatre cents espèces d’oiseaux.

La réserve a été créée en 1960.

Admirez la magie de l’aurore qui fait baigner le lac et ses habitants dans sa lumière dorée.

The Rift Valley

Kenya Great Rift valley (8)In Kenya there is an area South of Nairobi called the Rift Valley. The earth cracked and as a result of that it created a depression that is now a 6000km geographic trench which starts in Lebanon and goes all the way down to Mozambique. Africa has thus been separated into two plates: the Nubian Plate and the Somali Plate.

In the Rift Valley, the mountains are purple, the sky is strong blue, the well-shaped clouds always hang on the horizon, never just above your head, and the the bark of the trees is golden, the earth is at times of a vivid orange colour, so strong it can hurt your eyes.

Kenya Great Rift valley (1)Here, yes, indeed, it is true the clouds look like the ones we drew when we were children, cotton clouds or like the skins of the sheep that are sold along the way. It’s the place to see the world through the eyes of a child and here indeed we can understand why artists portray things in ways that would otherwise seem naive to us, because here we can see by them ourselves through the eyes of artists or children. If we want to understand art, we need to come this natural temple.

Kenya Great Rift valley (71)

As Karen Blixen had stated, here the trees, the golden trees, grow horizontally. Continue reading

The Maasais

DSCF4066The Maasais are a tribe of shepards who still preserve their culture as it was hundreds of years ago. Last century they suffered the biggest expoliation of land in the British colonial history. They are nomads and when they were asked for they fertile lands, they invited the British. In the Maasai’s perspective everything is temporary. So they thought they would be given back their lands. But instead they were pushed up the hills and then to the Mara river, which is why the southern lands of Kenya towards Tanzania are called the Maasai Mara. This is where the main Kenyan game reserve is located.

DSCF4034The Maasais  live in huts made of cowpat, and branches. Their fences are made of branches and they are circular. It looks so beautiful. This is where their cattle sleeps at night.

Each hut has five rooms, the main room where they light a fire and cook one for the parents, one for the children one for the guests and one for the baby cattle. There are tiny window in each hut that mesure around 15X15 cm.Inside the hut

They sleep on a cow skin. In each land enclosed by branched fences ten families live.

Their diet consists of cow blood and milk. Continue reading

Butterflies in Nairobi

Saving my soul…

Sunbird 2

Godliness in Nairobi. there are so many species of sunbirds. This is a male variable sunbird.
photographic credit: http://www.talking-naturally.co.uk/variable-sunbird-langata-kenya/

I had been bird-watching and was still observing some amazing colourful birds – tiny sunbirds- on the way, when a lady distracted my attention from these winged beauties. Really in the morning when there are no cars, Nairobi is a symphony!

It was Sunday at 8 :30 AM a Scandinavian – Swedish- woman wearing a hat walking with her husband approaches me. “Nice hat” she touches it. “ Where is it from?” – “ Thank you, from Spain”.  Then she starts asking a series of questions that end up reaching the point she had pre-paved: “We came here to attend a very interesting course…. because we are Christians. What about you?”

I say : “I am not a Christian”.

-What  are you? What do you belong to?

-I belong to myself and also to the Creation. ( Initally I had wanted to answer “I am Eva”, but she didn’t ask ” who”, who are you…)

-What do you mean by that?

-I mean that when I need to talk to someone, I talk directly to the person who can provide me with the answer. For example at work I talk to my boss, not to my colleague. When I have a question about life I ask God, not his priests.

– Oh interesting. And have you asked why there is so much suffering?


Godliness in Nairobi

-Yes. But you see, even without disturbing God, suffering is an emotion, and so the person who suffers has the choice. Suffering is one of them; not to suffer is another.- Oh that’s true. But what about physical pain? It’s difficult to re-direct one’s attention.

I was wondering why I was supposed to start thinking about what was happening to other people whose life I couldn’t solve. But after that I found out that she was actually worried about me. And later still that she was worried about what would happen 1000 years from now… And all the birds, trees, sunlight were there right now!

Then she says that she is a Christian because she has read the Bible and she feels it is really inspired by God.

–          I agree, I replied. But do you think at after He/She inspired the Bible, God stopped speaking?


Godliness in Nairobi has taken the form of a read flower in this particular case

I didn’t quite get her answer but it was something related to the fact that He still speaks to us in spite of having achieved His perfect book at an early age.

–          What I meant is that that maybe the Coran is also inspired by God, don’t you think?

She said she had tried to read it but she hadn’t got that feeling. So I understood that she wasn’t too keen on poetry. I wanted to say that if she had the same feeling we probably wouldn’t be having this conversation but contrary to her, I had no intention of saving her soul. I’m too selfish.

–          Then I asked about the Vedas

–          Oh the Hindu texts?

I didn’t know that the Vedas were hindu texts but…anyway. She said she hadn’t read them because the Bible was enough for her.

I said she was lucky to have found such a good book, a good book is a blessing! And then as she didn’t seem to like other books I told her that I believe God’s voice could also be heard in Tchaikovsky or Bethoveen’s Symphonies.

Then she came back to her Bible. In fact the Bible seems to be an amazing historic testimony as I learnt from the lecturer of the Walls of Jerusalem museum. Especially the book of Samuel.  She said that what she found amazing with the Bible is that it had predicted things and they had all happened. And she asked me if I was interested in knowing about the future.


Here Godliness has taken the form of a weaver bird and a bougainviller and a palm tree

-Oh my God! I have enough with what I am doing now, don’t you? You see I am walking in Nairobi, the weather is perfect the sun is shining, the birds are singing, the flowers are amazing, the trees are huge, why should I worry about what’s going to happen in 1000 years from now?

She must have thought I was a lost case, but however she offered me some reading.

-Thank you but I have a lot of reading. I haven’t finished Karen Blixen’s book yet and many other stuff I am reading. Please save your book for somebody else.


Godliness in Nairobi… no comment

– Thank you,  it was nice to meet you. Have you ever been to Sweden?

– Yes I have. To Stockholm. Beautiful country. The White nights, June 24th the sun ddidn’t set.

– It’s a small world isn’t it?

– Indeed it is.

After that I proceeded to buy a Bible – after all Bible means ” book” in greek- about the Kenyan birds. Nairobi is the capital with most bird species in the world.